A closer look at fibre, construction and finishing, informed by our family’s experience of producing cashmere knitwear in Mongolia since 1992.
For our founder, Mandkhai, cashmere has always been part of family life. Growing up in Mongolia within a family of cashmere manufacturers, she developed an intimate understanding of the fibre and the skill involved in working with it. Today, her designs take shape between our London studio and our family factory in Ulaanbaatar, where production is led by her mother.
Our family’s experience of making cashmere since 1992 informs how we look at a garment. The first touch is only part of the assessment. Quality also depends on the fibres selected, how the yarn is spun, and the precision of the knitting and finishing. Together, these decisions influence a piece’s softness, strength and how it wears over time.
When choosing cashmere, a closer look reveals much about the work behind it.
Begin with the fibre
Two garments can both carry a “100% cashmere” label and feel quite different. The label identifies the composition, but does not describe the length or fineness of the fibres.
Longer fibres generally help create stronger yarns with fewer exposed ends that can form pills. Finer fibres contribute to a softer feel. Fineness is measured in microns, with a lower measurement indicating a smaller fibre diameter. Both length and fineness matter when assessing the quality of the raw material.
Softness alone, however, does not tell the whole story. Spinning, knitting and finishing also influence how cashmere feels in the hand. These qualities cannot be reliably judged from a label or photograph alone, so ask what a brand can share about its fibre and how it is made into the finished piece.
Examine the construction
Turn the garment inside out and look at the joins around the shoulders and sleeves. Seams should be secure and neatly finished, without unintended puckering. Examine the neckline, cuffs and hem too. These quieter details reveal the precision of the making.
You may encounter the term “fully fashioned”. This means the individual panels are shaped during knitting before being joined together, forming the neckline, armholes and silhouette within the knit itself. Other pieces use seamless construction, with specialist machinery knitting the garment in one piece.
Different designs call for different approaches. Whether a piece is finely knitted or generously textured, its construction should support the intended shape and allow it to sit and move beautifully on the body.
Consider weight and structure
There is a particular pleasure in substantial cashmere: the depth of a rib, the warmth of a knitted coat and the way a generous silhouette falls around the body. These qualities are part of MANDKHAI’s collections, alongside lighter pieces designed for delicate layering.
Cashmere is a precious material, and the amount used contributes to a garment’s price. A heavier piece in pure cashmere uses more fibre, but weight tells you how much cashmere there is, rather than how fine it is. A delicate, lightweight knit can be just as beautifully made as a thick, substantial one.
The structure deserves equal attention. A generous knit needs a construction that supports its volume, while a fine layer requires precision to achieve lightness and an even finish. The quality lies in how thoughtfully the fibre, yarn and knitting work together to realise the design.
Understand pilling
Like human hair, the fine, loose fibres at the surface of cashmere yarn can become tangled when rubbed. This friction forms small bobbles, known as pills, often beneath the arms or where a bag rests against the body. It is a natural occurrence, even in fine, pure cashmere.
In well made cashmere, pilling often lessens over time as loose surface fibres are gently removed. Its extent also depends on the yarn, construction, finishing and the friction a garment encounters during wear. Pilling alone is therefore not a reliable measure of quality.
Equally, an absence of pilling does not necessarily indicate superior cashmere. Fibre blends and finishing treatments can also affect how a garment pills.
Be thoughtful about care
A little awareness during wear helps preserve cashmere’s surface and shape. Choose coats with smooth linings where possible, as rougher surfaces, including shearling, can increase friction and encourage pilling. Be mindful of repeated rubbing from bags and other layers too.
Give favourite pieces time to rest between wears and store them folded rather than hanging. Always follow the individual care instructions. Where suitable, gently remove pills with a cashmere comb, laying the garment flat and taking particular care around delicate stitches and decorative details.
Cashmere is made to be worn and enjoyed. Thoughtful care is part of keeping it beautiful over time.
Know the people behind your piece
Understanding where cashmere comes from brings another dimension to choosing it. Ask what a brand can share about its fibre, its production and the people responsible for making each garment.
For MANDKHAI, that knowledge comes through longstanding relationships with local nomadic herders and production in our family factory in Mongolia. Our involvement across the supply chain gives us intimate knowledge of our cashmere and responsibility for how it is made, grounded in our family’s expertise since 1992.
It also creates a close connection between Mandkhai’s creative practice in London and the technical knowledge of the women in our Ulaanbaatar production team, many of whom she has known since childhood. From developing a knitted silhouette to working our signature floral embroidery by hand, their skill gives each design its finished character.
Visit us in Princes Arcade to explore the different weights, textures and constructions in person. We would love to introduce you to the collection and let you feel the details for yourself.
Discover MANDKHAI
9–11 Princes Arcade, St James’s, London